These industry leaders are tasty pioneers, helping diners appreciate one of Orange County’s favorite ethnic foods.
A crispy taco, a saucy enchilada, Spanish rice and refried beans smothered in yellow cheese. Sounds delicious–but dated. Of course there’s nothing wrong with a yummy combo plate, but look how far one of Orange County’s favorite ethnic cuisines has come.
Mexican restaurants have spread their wings and they’re soaring. So as we celebrate Diez y Seis, the anniversary of self-determination for our southern neighbor, we salute restaurants that have changed our minds about what this cuisine is and how it’s presented. Our collection of 10 trend-setting restaurants and six local favorites isn’t just about where to get a tasty meal – it’s a carefully curated list that explains how such stellar offerings landed in our backyard.
It took courage for these places to break new ground at a time when a cheap plate of rice, beans and a taco was the norm. Can you believe the Avila family started El Ranchito more than 55 years ago?
Sadly, some bold concepts have been lost. We thought that David Wilhelm’s Chimayo would last forever. And it’s been a little over a year since we said goodbye to Chef Carlos Salgado’s cerebral takes on Mexican cuisine at Taco Maria, the only Mexican restaurant in O.C. with a Michelin star.
Fortunately, there are still many wonderful choices for adventurous foodies in O.C., so buen provecho. Let’s enjoy the best of Mexico and congratulate these pioneers who serve it fresh every day.
PHOTO 1: Fancy cocktails like El Jefe with tequila, mezcal, chile agave and mole bitters, are served with the restaurant’s logo pressed into the ice at Chaak in Tustin. PHOTO 2: Grilled chayote squash with almond requeson, English peas, charred sugar snap peas, hearts of palm, pea tendrils and recado negro vinaigrette. PHOTO 3: Tetela with green chorizo, chilies, corn, peas, charred pearl onions and pistachio mole verde. PHOTO 4: Tamal Colado with Oaxaca cheese, corn, corn mole, baby zucchini, squash blossom, pea tendrils, pistachio dukah and crema. PHOTO 5: Don’t skip dessert at Chaak or you’ll miss the Tarta de Mamey with mamey mousse, pine nut-coconut crust, strawberry, coconut chantilly and bee pollen. PHOTO 6: Bombas, cinnamon-sugar dusted beignets, served with dulce de leche and spiced chocolate sauce. Photos by Anne Valdespino, Culture OC
Chaak
It’s been a long journey for Gabbi Patrick, one that started with her family’s restaurants in Los Angeles County. There she gained a wealth of front-of-house experience, working as a GM while still a teenager. But she turned a corner when she decided to attend the Culinary Institute of America’s Napa campus. She committed to elevating the dishes she loved, going solo at Gabbi’s Mexican Kitchen in Orange.
Patrick really hit her stride in 2018 with Chaak, which recently celebrated its 6th anniversary and snagged another Michelin recognition for its value pricing with a Bib Gourmand award.
Drawing on her Yucatecan ancestry, she and husband Ed Patrick created a chic space in Tustin. They named it after the Mayan rain god, and added nods to pre-Hispanic culture: steel beams fitted with rings are reminiscent of the Mesoamerican ball court at Chichen Itza; a ceiba tree just outside the door is a Mayan symbol of the universe. Each night at twilight the retractable ceiling opens, creating a magical moment – the ancients studied the heavens in the belief that they could divine the will of their gods by tracking the movement of the sun, the moon and the planets.
Chaak is a symphony of smoky, spicy flavors. Under the guidance of Patrick, chef Vincent Espinoza (who has since departed for Xacalli Kitchen) created a menu that updates traditional recipes. Using a $27,000 J&R Manufacturing smoker, a wood-fired oven and grill, this kitchen brings out profound flavors in meats and vegetables.
A recado negro vinaigrette enlivens a plate of grilled chayote squash and a 24-ounce prime New York strip will make your mouth water just to see its charred bone and caramelized exterior.
But the real magic of this place is its party-like vibe. There are wonderful wines from the Valle de Guadalupe and Querétaro as well as a list of hip cocktails including Spanish gin-tonics. Book ahead because this place is so beguiling that even on a weeknight you might have to wait for a table.
WHERE: 215 El Camino Real, Tustin
COST: Appetizers ($16-$26); entrees ($42-$96); desserts ($6-$12).
CONTACT: 657-699-3019, chaakkitchen.com
