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Where I Prefer to Dine

Writer's picture:  Anne Marie Panoringan Anne Marie Panoringan

Ini Ristorante's seasonal golden beets with prosciutto. Photo by Anne Marie Panoringan/Culture OC
 

At some point when I strike up a conversation with someone new (and they learn about my food writing), they ask the question that I dread, “What’s your favorite restaurant?” And I rarely, if ever, give a proper response. Why? It changes all the time. I am always on the search for the shiny, new spot to cover, so to make time to revisit a favorite can be tough.


That being said, over the years there have been a handful of places that I can rely on for consistently solid dining. Many of them have aesthetics that I can ramble on about; all of them have stellar service. You’ll better understand my culinary point-of-view when you read about my dining mainstays. So for all the acquaintances and friends I’ve made over the years, here’s my loaded response.


Ini Ristorante's branzino with yuzu beurre blanc. Photo by Anne Marie Panoringan/Culture OC

With day drinking plus brunch served weekends in addition to lunch and dinner, this Italian concept with Japanese influences demonstrates how far Orange County dining has advanced these last few years. Kei Concepts is responsible for this and a number of aggressive forays into multiple Asian cuisines, with Sup Noodle Bar being the very first concept to strike gold. Savvy social media plays up Ini’s gorgeous menu that tastes as good as it appears, while well-trained servers complete the experience. I normally gravitate toward the melon and prosciutto with hazelnuts and mustard vinaigrette to prime my palette. Umami-rich truffle funghi pizza is a go-to, unless I’m in the mood for seafood – then it’s branzino for me.


Also worthy of mention is Gem, Kei’s fine dining destination helmed by Chef Nathan Loudermill. Admittedly, I didn’t realize that Gem’s menu was on constant rotation and hadn’t gone back since opening until a few months ago. But I learned recently that this is changing, with a lineup of greatest hits to be consistently offered alongside a seasonal menu. Bonus: By the time you read this, Irvine will be blessed with dual concepts in the former EMC Seafood: Nep (a Vietnamese brunch concept) in the daytime with Kin Izakaya during evening hours.



A steak entree from Marché Moderne. Photos by Anne Marie Panoringan/Culture OC


I have been loyal to this French restaurant since its original address at South Coast Plaza many years ago. Superb service, an intimate setting and dinner specials that truly are special, in addition to an already impeccable menu, make this one of the very best establishments in Orange County, period. We always begin with the bread service with butter before pursuing its comprehensive menu; I rarely, if ever, order the same entrée twice. Possessing desserts to rival everywhere else means Marché is a place we occasionally visit solely for a sweet finish. It is worth every dollar spent. My hope is that James Beard and/or Michelin realize it as well one day.


While I do my best to work my way around Olea’s menu, most of the time I gravitate back to its chicken schnitzel with herby spätzle (I’m salivating just thinking about this dish) as well as those signature Meyer lemon and honey duck wings. An ample parking situation at the border of Costa Mesa and its Newport Beach address means never stressing about making our reservation on time. Regulars at Olea’s wrap-around bar keep it perpetually busy, and for good reason — one of the county’s most prolific bartenders, Inga Tantisalidchai, can be found pouring her monthly cocktail special.



Olea's duck wings, left, and schnitzel with spaetzle. Photo by Anne Marie Panoringan/Culture OC


The RJB Restaurant Group (named after owner Russ Bendel) in particular has made great strides in the past decade and I’ve enjoyed every single brand Bendel, Chef Jared Cook (one of my very first interviews back in 2011) and the partners have developed. Across the board, service is always pleasant and every dining room/patio offers a cozy, welcoming vibe. Note: For more scenic views and people watching, check out Sapphire, its Laguna Beach outpost.


Populaire's spicy crab salad with petite hemp rolls. Photos by Anne Marie Panoringan/Culture OC